Damascus walking tour & city guide

Inside the Old City

Most visits begin at Souq al-Hamidiyah, a long covered market under a high iron roof, crowded with shops selling clothes, sweets, perfume and household goods. At its far end stand the columns of the old Roman Temple of Jupiter, and beyond them the Umayyad Mosque, built in the early 8th century on a site sacred for thousands of years, with a vast marble courtyard and golden mosaics.

South of the mosque, Souq al-Bzouriyeh smells of spices and soap, and the 18th-century Azm Palace shows how wealthy Damascene families lived around shaded courtyards with fountains. Straight Street, mentioned in the Bible, crosses the Old City from west to east to the Roman gate of Bab Sharqi, and just north of it lies Bab Touma, the old Christian quarter of churches, small squares and quiet lanes.

A classic walk: Souq al-Hamidiyah to Bab Touma

Start in the morning at the entrance of Souq al-Hamidiyah, beside the walls of the citadel, and walk its length to the Roman columns and the Umayyad Mosque. After visiting the courtyard, wind south through the spice souq to Azm Palace.

From there, join Straight Street and follow it east, ducking into side alleys to glimpse courtyard houses and old workshops. Finish in the late afternoon in Bab Touma, where the lanes fill with families and the old houses glow in the evening light.

Good to know

Spring (April and May) and autumn (September to November) are the most pleasant times to walk; summers are hot and dry. The Old City is compact and best explored on foot, while taxis link it with the newer districts and the viewpoints of Mount Qasioun. Dress modestly, and women need a headscarf and covered arms and legs to enter the Umayyad Mosque. Check current travel advice before you go.