Seville itinerary for first-timers

The cathedral is one of the largest in the world, a Gothic giant built on the site of the city's main mosque. Inside are a vast gilded altarpiece, the choir and the monumental tomb of Christopher Columbus, and outside the Patio de los Naranjos, the orange-tree courtyard that was once the mosque's. Its bell tower, the Giralda, began as the minaret and can be climbed by ramp rather than stairs.

• Tomb of Columbus
• Patio de los Naranjos
• The Giralda
• Plaza Virgen de los Reyes

Go early to avoid the longest queues; the Giralda ramps are a good first view over the whole city.

Across the square from the cathedral, the Alcázar is the oldest royal palace still in use in Europe, begun by the Moors and rebuilt in the 14th century by a Christian king who hired Muslim craftsmen. Its Mudéjar courtyards, carved plasterwork and tiled halls open onto extensive gardens with fountains, palm trees and pools.

• Courtyard of the Dolls
• Hall of Ambassadors
• Courtyard of the Maidens
• Gardens and Grotto Gallery

Book your slot ahead in busy months; the gardens are the best place to cool off in the afternoon.

The old Jewish quarter is a tangle of whitewashed lanes, tiny squares and iron-gated patios shaded by orange trees. It is easy to get lost, and that is the point: every corner opens onto a small plaza, a church or a balcony covered in flowers.

• Whitewashed lanes
• Small squares
• Patios behind iron gates
• Orange trees

Visit at the quiet ends of the day; mid-afternoon the narrowest lanes fill with tour groups.

North of the cathedral, the pedestrian shopping streets of the old centre lead to the Plaza del Salvador and the baroque El Salvador Church, one of the largest churches in the city. Sierpes is the classic stroll of Seville, lined with shops and cafés.

• Calle Sierpes
• El Salvador Church
• Plaza del Salvador

Walk it at the paseo hour, when locals fill the street, then stop at a café on the Plaza del Salvador.

The giant wooden 'mushrooms' of the Metropol Parasol are one of the largest wooden structures in the world, and a rooftop walkway takes you over the Plaza de la Encarnación. After dark the structure glows, and from there the old streets and shopping lanes lead on towards the Alameda.

• Rooftop walkway
• Plaza de la Encarnación
• The lit structure at night

Come at sunset or after dark, when the colours and the plaza are at their best.

Built for the 1929 Ibero-American Exposition, the plaza is a vast brick semicircle with a canal, ornate bridges and ceramic benches representing each Spanish province. Rowing boats glide on the water, horse-drawn carriages move under the arches, and the arcades are perfect for a slow walk in the shade.

• The semicircular building
• Tiled bridges
• Provincial benches
• The canal

Come in the morning, before the heat and the biggest crowds; the light on the brick is best then.

Next to the plaza, the park is a shady oasis of palm-lined avenues, fountains, blooming gardens and quiet corners, one of the best places in the city to escape the heat. It is a calm contrast to the monuments, and it takes at least an hour to wander.

• Palm-lined avenues
• Fountains and gardens
• Shaded paths

In summer the park is the coolest place in the middle of the day.

The Guadalquivir is the city's old gateway to the Americas, and its promenades run past the 13th-century Torre del Oro, a watchtower that shines gold in the evening light. The walk crosses the river's bridges and passes gardens and open riverside plazas, with the Triana side just across the water.

• Torre del Oro
• Puente de San Telmo
• Isabel II Bridge
• Chapina Garden

The river is at its best in the late afternoon, when the Torre del Oro catches the sun.

Across the river, Triana has always been a district of sailors, potters and flamenco. The market sits on the ruins of a medieval castle, and the streets just behind it are full of ceramic shops and tile-decorated façades.

• Mercado de Triana
• Ceramic workshops and tiles
• The riverside approach

Go in the morning, when the market is at its liveliest.

Triana's main street runs from the market past the church of Santa Ana, one of the oldest in the city, to the riverfront Calle Betis. It is lined with bars, tile shops and small chapels, and from the river walk the skyline of the old town opens up across the water.

• Calle Pureza
• Santa Ana Church
• Calle Betis

End on Calle Betis for the view of the old town across the Guadalquivir.

North of the old centre, the Alameda is one of the oldest public squares in Europe, a long tree-lined plaza flanked by terraces, and a favourite with locals. Nearby, the Feria neighbourhood has its own market and lively streets, with the feel of everyday Seville.

• Alameda de Hércules
• Feria Market
• Plaza del Pumarejo

The Alameda is busiest in the evening, when the terraces fill; Feria is at its best in the morning.

At the northern edge of the old town, La Macarena keeps a stretch of the medieval city walls and the basilica that houses one of the most venerated images of Holy Week. It is a quieter, more residential corner than the centre.

• Medieval walls
• Macarena Basilica
• Parliament of Andalusia

The walls are best seen in the late afternoon light; the area is calm in the evening.