Seoul itinerary for first-timers

The largest of Seoul's royal palaces, a walled complex of throne halls, pavilions and courtyards below the mountains, with a colourful changing of the guard at the main gate.

• Gwanghwamun Gate
• Throne hall
• Changing of the guard

Entry is free if you wear a hanbok, the traditional Korean dress; rental shops line the streets nearby.

Hillside lanes of traditional tiled-roof hanok houses between two palaces, with glimpses of modern Seoul over the rooftops.

• Hanok lanes
• Bukchon viewpoints

People live here: keep voices down, and note that the busiest lanes limit visiting hours.

Seoul's traditional crafts street, lined with tea houses, galleries and shops selling ceramics, calligraphy brushes and handmade paper.

• Insadong-gil
• Ssamziegil
• Tea houses

A restored stream running below street level through the city centre, with stepping stones and footbridges, softly lit at night.

• Cheonggyecheon Stream
• City Hall
• Jongno

One of Seoul's oldest markets, famous for its food alleys, next to the fashion wholesale district of Dongdaemun and the curving silver Dongdaemun Design Plaza.

• Gwangjang food alleys
• Dongdaemun Design Plaza
• Fashion malls

The busiest shopping district in the city, full of cosmetics shops, and in the evening its streets fill with food stalls.

• Myeongdong street food
• Myeongdong Cathedral
• Shopping streets

The forested hill in the middle of the city, topped by N Seoul Tower, with the best night view over Seoul's lights in every direction.

• N Seoul Tower
• Namsan trails
• Night views

Walk up from Myeongdong or take the cable car; the paths are lit in the evening.

Seoul's favourite riverside park, where locals picnic, cycle and order fried chicken to the grass as the sun sets over the bridges.

• Han River
• Water fountains
• River bridges

The university district and centre of Seoul's youth culture, with street performers and dancers, cheap eats and bars open late.

• Busking street
• Hongdae shopping streets
• Late-night bars