Amman walking tour & city guide

Downtown and the hills

Downtown, known as Al-Balad, is the old heart of the city. The Roman Theatre, cut into the hillside in the second century and still used for events, faces the Hashemite Plaza, and the streets around it are lined with souqs for spices, gold, clothes and fresh produce. The King Hussein Mosque and countless small shops keep the area busy from morning until late evening.

Above downtown, the Citadel hill holds the columns of the Temple of Hercules, the remains of an Umayyad palace and the best view over Amman. To the west, Jabal Amman is a calmer district of old villas, cafés and galleries around Rainbow Street, and the new Abdali district has a pedestrian boulevard and shopping streets.

A classic walk: the Citadel to Rainbow Street

Start in the morning at the Citadel, then take the stairways down into downtown, past the Roman Theatre and into the souqs. Stop for falafel and fresh juice, and save room for a plate of warm knafeh from one of the sweet shops.

In the afternoon, climb one of the long public staircases up to Jabal Amman and walk along Rainbow Street. Its cafés and rooftop terraces look back across the valley to the Citadel, which is lit up at night.

Good to know

March to May and September to November are the best months; summers are hot and dry, and winters can be cold, with occasional snow on the hills. Taxis and ride-hailing apps are cheap and useful, as the hills make long walks tiring. The Jordan Pass covers the entry visa for many visitors and entry to Petra and other sites. Popular day trips lead to the Roman city of Jerash and the Dead Sea. Check current travel advice before you go.