Shinjuku walking tour & neighborhood guide
Skyscrapers, neon alleys and the world's busiest train station.
Video by THE JAPAN WALK on YouTube, uploaded May 2026. All rights belong to the creator. Like or comment on YouTube ↗
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Shinjuku is Tokyo at full volume. Around three million people pass through its station every day, skyscrapers fill the west side, and the east side glows with some of the most intense neon in Asia. Yet a few steps away are smoky alleys from the post-war years and one of the loveliest gardens in the city.
East Shinjuku after dark
The east exit leads into Shinjuku's entertainment district. Kabukicho, under the giant Godzilla head that peers over a cinema tower, is a maze of signs, arcades, restaurants and nightclubs. It is busy and generally safe, though visitors should politely ignore street touts trying to lead them into bars.
Just east of Kabukicho, Golden Gai is a cluster of six narrow lanes holding around two hundred tiny bars, many with room for only a handful of guests. Beside the station, Omoide Yokocho, sometimes called Memory Lane, is a strip of smoky yakitori counters that has barely changed since the 1940s.
West Shinjuku and the gardens
The west side is Tokyo's first skyscraper district. The twin towers of the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building have free observation decks on the 45th floor, with views that reach Mount Fuji on clear winter mornings. In the evenings, a light show is projected onto the building's facade.
To the south-east, Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden mixes Japanese, English and French garden styles across nearly 60 hectares. It is one of the best places in Tokyo for cherry blossoms in spring and for red maples in late autumn.
A classic walk in Shinjuku
Start in the late afternoon at the Metropolitan Government Building for the view, then cross under the tracks to Omoide Yokocho. Walk through the east side's shopping streets to Kabukicho, look up at Godzilla, and end the evening among the lanterns of Golden Gai and the quiet Hanazono Shrine next door.
Shinjuku Station has more than 200 exits, so pick your exit before you arrive. Many Golden Gai bars charge a small cover fee, and some welcome only regulars, so look for signs that say visitors are welcome.
Top sights in Shinjuku
- 1
Kabukicho
Tokyo's neon entertainment district, watched over by a giant Godzilla head.
- 2
Golden Gai
Six narrow lanes with around two hundred tiny bars.
- 3
Omoide Yokocho
A post-war alley of smoky yakitori counters beside the station.
- 4
Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building
Free observation decks with views over the whole city.
- 5
Shinjuku Gyoen
A huge garden famous for cherry blossoms and autumn leaves.
- 6
Hanazono Shrine
A quiet Shinto shrine between Kabukicho and Golden Gai.
Food markets & where to eat in Shinjuku
Omoide Yokocho
Grilled skewers and cold beer at tiny counters.
Shinjuku ramen streets
Dozens of ramen shops around the station, many open late.
Depachika food halls
The basement food floors of the big department stores.
Shin-Okubo
Tokyo's Koreatown, one stop north, with street food and snack stalls.
Opening hours and prices change often. Please check with each place before you visit.
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