Baghdad walking tour & city guide

Rusafa, Karkh and the river

The oldest part of the city is in Rusafa, on the east bank. Here Al-Mutanabbi Street, named after a classical Arab poet, is lined with bookshops and fills with book stalls on Fridays; the 13th-century Al-Mustansiriya School, one of the oldest surviving Islamic colleges, stands near the river; and Shorja, the city's great old market, sells spices, sweets and household goods in crowded lanes. Al-Rasheed Street, the first modern avenue, still has rows of old colonnades.

Further south, Tahrir Square is marked by the long Freedom Monument, and the riverside Abu Nuwas Street is a promenade of parks and fish restaurants. Across the water in Karkh lie the Iraq Museum, the great gold-domed shrine of Al-Kadhimiya in the north-west, and the newer districts of Al-Mansour, while on the east bank the Abu Hanifa Mosque anchors the old neighbourhood of Adhamiyah.

A classic walk: Al-Mutanabbi Street to the Tigris

Start on a Friday morning at Al-Mutanabbi Street, when books are laid out along the pavement and the old tea houses are full. At the river end of the street, the Ottoman-era Qishla courtyard with its clock tower looks over the Tigris, a good place to sit and watch the water.

From there, walk along the riverbank to Al-Mustansiriya School and then into the lanes of the old souqs, where coppersmiths and spice sellers still work. In the late afternoon, continue to Tahrir Square and on to Abu Nuwas Street for the evening, when families come out to the riverside parks.

Good to know

October to April is the best time to visit; summers are extremely hot, often above 45°C. Taxis and ride-hailing apps are the easiest way to cross the spread-out city, and checkpoints are part of daily traffic. Dress modestly, and women should bring a headscarf and an abaya for visits to the shrines. Check current travel advice before you go.