Copenhagen itinerary for first-timers

One of the longest pedestrian streets in Europe runs from Kongens Nytorv to City Hall Square through the old town, with small squares, fountains and side streets along the way.

• Strøget
• Gammeltorv
• Amagertorv
• City Hall Square

On the little island of Slotsholmen, Christiansborg holds the Danish parliament, the royal reception rooms and the ruins of the earlier castles below. Its tower has one of the best free views of the city, and Thorvaldsens Museum stands next door.

• Christiansborg Palace
• Palace tower
• Thorvaldsens Museum
• Marble Bridge

The 17th-century harbour canal lined with brightly painted townhouses and old wooden ships is the postcard view of Copenhagen. Walk both sides of the canal and out to the harbour front at the end.

• Painted townhouses
• Old wooden ships
• Kongens Nytorv

The terraces on the sunny north side are always full; the quieter south side has the best view of the colours.

Opened in 1843, Tivoli is one of the oldest amusement parks in the world, a garden of old rides, pavilions and lakes in the middle of the city. It is at its most magical after dark, when thousands of lights come on.

• Tivoli Gardens
• Evening lights
• City Hall

Tivoli opens by season, with special Halloween and Christmas seasons; check the dates before planning your evening around it.

A red-brick Renaissance castle built by King Christian IV, which holds the Danish crown jewels, set in the King's Garden, the oldest royal garden in the city and a favourite park for picnics.

• Rosenborg Castle
• Crown jewels
• King's Garden

The great green dome of Frederik's Church, the Marble Church, looks down on Amalienborg, four identical palaces around an octagonal square where the royal family lives. The Royal Guard changes here every day at noon.

• Marble Church
• Amalienborg Palace
• Changing of the guard
• Harbour view to the Opera

Arrive a little before noon for the changing of the guard.

North of Amalienborg, Kastellet is a star-shaped 17th-century fortress whose grassy ramparts make a peaceful walk. Just outside it, by the water, sits the Little Mermaid, the small bronze statue inspired by Hans Christian Andersen's tale.

• Kastellet ramparts
• The Little Mermaid
• Gefion Fountain

The statue is smaller than people expect and busy around midday; it is calmer late in the afternoon.

Across the harbour, Christianshavn is a district of canals, houseboats and old warehouses. The Church of Our Saviour has a spiral staircase that winds around the outside of its spire, and next to it is Freetown Christiania, the self-governing community founded in 1971.

• Church of Our Saviour
• Christianshavn canals
• Freetown Christiania
• Knippelsbro

Photography is not allowed on Pusher Street in Christiania; put your camera away there and follow the signs.

Copenhagen's harbour is clean enough to swim in, and in summer locals jump in from wooden decks and harbour baths. New pedestrian and cycle bridges cross the water, and street food markets have opened in old harbour buildings.

• Pedestrian bridges
• Harbour swimming spots
• Classic wooden sailboats
• Street food markets

Swim only at the marked harbour baths and swimming zones, never near boat traffic.