Phnom Penh walking tour & city guide

The palace, the riverside and the markets

The Royal Palace, with its golden, many-tiered roofs, is still the king's residence, but parts of the grounds are open to visitors, including the Silver Pagoda, whose floor is laid with silver tiles. Next door, the red-roofed National Museum holds a fine collection of Khmer sculpture. In front of them, Sisowath Quay runs along the river, busy with joggers, families and street vendors in the evening.

North of the centre, Wat Phnom stands on the small hill that gave the city its name. The Central Market, Phsar Thmei, is a striking yellow art deco building with a central dome, and in the south of the city the Russian Market, Tuol Tom Poung, is a maze of stalls. The Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum tells the story of the Khmer Rouge years and deserves a quiet, unhurried visit.

A classic walk: Wat Phnom to the Royal Palace

Start at Wat Phnom in the cool of the morning, then walk to the Central Market for breakfast under its dome. Head east to the riverside and follow Sisowath Quay south, with views across the water to the new riverside districts.

End at the Royal Palace and the National Museum. In the evening, return to the riverside for the sunset, or cross to Koh Norea, a new waterfront park on the river island to the south-east, for views back at the skyline.

Good to know

November to February is the best season, dry and slightly cooler; March to May is very hot, and the rainy season runs from about May to October. Tuk-tuks and ride-hailing apps are cheap and easy. Cover shoulders and knees at the Royal Palace and pagodas. US dollars are accepted almost everywhere alongside the riel.