Rio de Janeiro self-guided walking tour: Centro to Santa Teresa
A walk through the oldest part of Rio de Janeiro, from the antique stalls of Rua do Lavradio past colonial churches and a palace of books to the Lapa Arches, up the tiled Selarón Steps and into the hilltop streets of Santa Teresa. Watch the whole route in 4K first, then walk it yourself, stop by stop.
- Distance
- About 5.4 km3.4 miles, on foot
- Time
- 3 to 4 hoursabout 68 min of walking
- Start
- Rua do LavradioTiradentes VLT tram stop, or Carioca metro station (Lines 1 and 2), about 10 minutes' walk
- Finish
- Largo dos GuimarãesSanta Teresa tram (bonde) back down to its Centro terminus near Carioca metro station, or a taxi or ride-hailing car
Press play to start at stop 1, or pick any stop below.
Video by Prowalk Tours on YouTube
This route follows one continuous Saturday afternoon walk from the Rio Antigo market in Centro through Lapa and up to Santa Teresa, filmed in January 2024 with captions. Each stop opens the video where the camera reaches it.
The route, stop by stop
- 1
Rua do Lavradio
Start on one of Centro's oldest streets, lined with two-storey colonial houses, antique dealers and old music bars. On the first Saturday of each month it fills with the Rio Antigo fair, a long street market of antiques, crafts and live samba.
If you can, time your walk for a fair Saturday; on other days the street is quiet in the morning and livelier in the evening.
↓ About 5 min walk (440 m) to Praça Tiradentes
- 2
Praça Tiradentes
A short walk north, this leafy square is named after the hero of Brazil's first independence plot. An equestrian statue of Emperor Pedro I stands in the centre, with old theatres around the edges. In the weeks before Carnival it hosts street parties.
↓ About 5 min walk (360 m) to Church of São Francisco de Paula
- 3
Church of São Francisco de Paula
Across a few busy market streets, this large 18th-century church faces its own square, Largo de São Francisco de Paula. It is one of the grandest colonial churches in the city, with a richly carved and gilded interior.
The streets around Rua Uruguaiana are packed with stalls on weekdays and Saturdays; keep your bag in front of you in the crowd.
↓ About 2 min walk (170 m) to Royal Portuguese Reading Room
- 4
Royal Portuguese Reading Room
Behind an ornate stone front on Rua Luís de Camões is one of the most beautiful libraries in the world: a tall reading room of carved wood, wrought iron and floor-to-ceiling books, built by the city's Portuguese community in the 19th century.
It is a working library, so speak quietly and check before you go whether it is open to visitors that day.
↓ About 13 min walk (1.1 km) to Arco do Teles
- 5
Arco do Teles
Through the market streets towards the waterfront, this old arch leads off Praça XV, the square where Rio's colonial history was made, into narrow lanes of 18th-century houses. Nearby Rua do Ouvidor is one of the oldest streets in the city.
Praça XV and the old Imperial Palace are only a minute away if you want to add a short detour to the bay.
↓ About 20 min walk (1.6 km) to Carioca Aqueduct (Lapa Arches)
- 6
Carioca Aqueduct (Lapa Arches)
Head south to Lapa and its landmark, the double row of white arches built in the 18th century to carry water into the city. Today the Santa Teresa tram runs along the top, and the square below is the centre of Rio's famous nightlife district.
↓ About 4 min walk (350 m) to Escadaria Selarón
- 7
Escadaria Selarón
A few streets away, the Selarón Steps climb from Lapa towards Santa Teresa, covered in thousands of tiles from around the world. The Chilean-born artist Jorge Selarón spent years decorating them as a tribute to the Brazilian people.
The steps get very busy in the middle of the day; early morning is best for photos without crowds.
↓ About 9 min walk (750 m) to Parque das Ruínas
- 8
Parque das Ruínas
Climb the Ladeira de Santa Teresa past the Jorge Salomão viewpoint to this park built inside the brick shell of an old mansion. Walkways and stairs lead up to a terrace with one of the best free views over Centro, the bay and Sugarloaf Mountain.
The climb is steep; take it slowly in the heat and stop at the viewpoints on the way up.
↓ About 9 min walk (730 m) to Largo dos Guimarães
- 9
Largo dos Guimarães
Follow Rua Almirante Alexandrino, the main street of Santa Teresa, along the tram tracks past the Curvelo viewpoint and old mansions to finish at the neighbourhood's small central square, with its bars, craft shops and tram stop.
Riding the tram back down over the Lapa Arches is a good way to end the walk without retracing the hill.
About this walk
Most visitors see Rio from the beach, but the city grew up in Centro, the old colonial core around the port, and in the hillside neighbourhoods above it. This route links the two: a grid of busy market streets and quiet squares, the white arches of the old aqueduct, and a steep climb to Santa Teresa, where old mansions, viewpoints and the little yellow tram give the city a completely different pace.
The route follows one continuous Saturday afternoon walk with captions, so each stop opens the video at the moment the camera arrives. The first half is flat; the second climbs steadily from Lapa into Santa Teresa, so bring water, wear good shoes and keep the walk to daylight. As anywhere in a big city, keep your phone and valuables out of sight on quieter streets.
Good to know
Is this walk free?
Yes. The streets, squares, churches, the Selarón Steps and the Parque das Ruínas can all be seen without a ticket. Only the Santa Teresa tram back down costs a small fare.
How long is the walk from Centro to Santa Teresa?
The walking itself is about an hour and a half, with a steady climb at the end. With time in the markets, the Reading Room, Lapa and the viewpoints, most people take three to four hours.
Is it safe to walk from Lapa up to Santa Teresa?
Walk it in daylight and stick to the main streets used by other visitors. Carry only what you need, keep your phone out of sight on quiet stretches, and take the tram or a taxi rather than walking back down after dark.
What is the best day for this walk?
A weekday or Saturday morning, when Centro's streets and markets are busy. On Sundays much of Centro is closed and empty. The first Saturday of the month adds the Rio Antigo fair on Rua do Lavradio.
Can I do it in the other direction?
Yes. Take the tram up to Largo dos Guimarães and walk downhill through Santa Teresa to the Selarón Steps and Lapa, then finish in Centro. It saves the climb but you meet the market streets later in the day.
Distances and walking times are approximate. Check opening days and any booking requirements before you go.
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